Reznicek is an upscale restaurant hidden on a sleepy Vienna street near the Liechtenstein Garden Palace in District 9. The short menu of Central European classics – Cordon bleu, Paprikash, Palatschinken – aren’t so much reimagined as they are elevated to near fine dining level (the owners come from the Michelin world). Add to these a few choice meats, flatfish, and an exhaustive list of wines served from delicate Zalto glasses.

Reznicek tops the city's Beuschel chart: this traditional plate of sour lungs appears as julienned bits of lamb sitting in a rich and bright sauce while a soft brioche waits on the side for its turn to mop up the leftovers. Comparable praise is due for the pure-tasting monkfish (again, that sauce) and everything else I've tried. Sadly, the steep price points – mains are €30-40 – render Reznicek a special-occasion restaurant for most of us.

(If you’ve also wondered about the name, the answer is prosaic: the restaurant is located on Reznicekgasse, named after the Austrian composer, Emil von Reznicek.)

To remain unbiased, I visit all places incognito and pay for my own meals and drinks. If you're enjoying this article, please consider supporting me by making a one-time payment (PayPal, Venmo).